#Terraino Basics #3: Ground & Floor Grid Tiles

#Terraino Basics #3: Ground & Floor Grid Tiles

Hi! Today we’re going to be making grid
tiles. There are two types of grid tiles There’s ground tiles and there’s floor
tiles. Ground tiles are intended to be the lowest part of whatever you’re
putting on your table so this would be actually on your tabletop. Floor tiles
are intended to be levels or ledges or different floors in buildings and
structures. Now you’ll notice the only difference between these two, outside of being different sizes is that the floor tiles have this ridge on the outside
edge and that’s so you can put a wall flush with the outside of the tile. That
comes in handy for like the second story of a building for instance or
if you want to put a ledge in your dungeon somewhere you can put walls
around one side of it or something. So we’re gonna be making these two today
using the jig that we made in the previous video as well as the grid
square template. So let’s get started! So we’re gonna start out with the grid tile
template we made in the previous video and we’re gonna just cut a bunch
of these out. Now this foam I’ve taken the paper off of both sides. I have
noticed that if you buy the black foam board from Dollar Tree the paper comes
off a lot easier, so keep that in mind. We’re gonna need a few of these if
you’re gonna do a 20 by 20 inch ground tile like we’re doing in this video. You’ll need 144 squares. I know that sounds kind of like a lot but usually what I do is I
just sit and cut a few sheets of them out and put them aside so I just sort of
have them on hand. You want to make sure that your
utility knife is perpendicular to the surface. You don’t need to use a whole
lot of pressure to cut these out. They cut out pretty easily so just follow the
guideline. Go as slow as you need to and as should do this more and more it gets a
lot easier. Now what you may want to do and I I don’t have this in the video but
what you may want to do is before you sit down to actually glue these on to a
tile you may want to test fit them in your jig just to make sure they all fit.
It’s okay if they’re a little bit smaller than your jigs space but if
they’re too big, then you’re going to want to trim a little off and
this is what’s going to be the base for the ground tile. We’re gonna cut this out
of a full sheet of foam board to 20 by 20 inches and always make sure you take
the paper off of both sides or by the time you’re done with this it will warp
and you will have wasted a lot of time. So now we’re gonna put a couple of guide
markers in there. We’re basically just gonna score the top of the sheet with
our mechanical pencil lead and these guidelines are gonna make sure that we
stay square and stay on target the whole way through gluing on our squares. The
reason I actually use a pencil here, not like something like a felt-tip marker, is
that if you use a felt-tip marker for these guidelines, sometimes, when you paint
over it, it’ll still be seen so I would recommend using something like a
mechanical pencil because by the time you’re tile’s painted, you can’t see this
guideline. And we’re gonna place that first square on the intersection of
those two guidelines and we’re gonna work out from there. Now you want to make
sure this is completely dry before you put your jig on it like I just did here.
I did cut some time out of there just for the interest of not wasting your
time but you want to make sure it’s completely dry.
Whatever square is you put the jog on, you want to make sure completely dry because,
otherwise, you run the risk of moving a square and not realizing it. You
also want to squeeze down onto the square after you place it just to sort
of get any air bubbles out there. In fact you can almost hear air bubbles
squeezing out of it sometimes when you do it. It’s just a good idea to do that
so you don’t get it bowed up and you’ll notice as I go along
I’m always turning the the tile and this is sort of an easy way for me to keep
from accidentally placing my jig on a square that I recently glued that may
not be totally dry. And you’ll also notice pretty soon that
I will be starting a new row and a new column and whenever I do that the first
squares that I place are always on one of my guide lines. That way I make sure
that I stay on target the whole way through and you can see I’m still rotating So I’m making sure that I’m not anchoring
using a recently glued down tile that may still be wet. Here I’m
starting a new row or a new column depending on how you look at it and the first
piece I put down I’m putting on one of my guide lines. This way I’m ensuring
that this new row that I’m starting is going to be in line and square with the
rest of the board and then you see I’m doing that all the way around and then
I’m going to fill in the other squares rotating the tile as I go to avoid
anchoring on a tile that may still be wet and you basically follow this
pattern the whole way through and obviously this is really sped up but you
can sort of see the process and you will come to the edge and sometimes your
squares will hang a little over. Sometimes they’ll be a little under. This
is because of natural human error. Differences in your template, in
my template and whatever else it’s really okay. It’s fine. In fact, those
overhangs, you don’t even notice them on the table and by the time
you put the mixture of PVA and paint down there
it basically fuses these all these grid squares to the the top of the board and
it just becomes one solid piece. And that’s it that’s pretty much all you have
to do for gluing them down. It’s ready tom go. Just double checking some fits. Now we’re gonna add a little texture to
it using our handy-dandy tin foil ball. I’m just gonna roll that all over the surface. You can put as much or as little texture on as you want and
after we’re done with that we’re gonna do our paint which is 50/50 mix of PVA
glue and paint and we’re gonna add water to it until it’s kind of drippy because
we want to make sure that it all seeps into that foam and it basically fuses
all those separate pieces of foam into one solid piece. It’s great. And after you’ve covered the whole thing,
you’re gonna want to dab out any brushstrokes and it’s okay if some of the paint gets pulled up by the brush you can kind of see some of it has here
already. You won’t even notice it and that just adds more texture by the
time you add a wash and dry brush. So now we’re gonna add our wash. This is roughly
a ten to one mix of water and black paint. Just add water it until it
looks translucent like it does on the piece of paper here and you’re good to
go. Just dab it on the surface. Spread it all around. Just keep in mind that it
does dry lighter than it looks when you’re putting it on, so if you
want it to be darker, you can put on another coat after this one dries. That’s
fine too. You can’t really do this wrong. It’s just as much or as
little as your heart desires and after this is dried we will go ahead and dry
brush on our highlights and our highlights I usually do in some
off-white color. In this case, I’m using ivory. You can use bone, use eggshell …
I would avoid using straight white. Sometimes that can look a little
artificial. And we’re gonna use our big old cheap Dollar Store brush and brush
that on here and you can’t really do this wrong. Usually what I do is I
start by doing figure eights or twirling so if I have any big blotches they’ll
sort of just look like natural veins in the rock. Now if you’re not familiar with
dry brushing it’s pretty simple. It’s called dry brushing because what you do
is you put a very small amount of paint and then you dab off most of it and then
you just brush it over the surface like I’m doing here. You’re just trying to get
a very minimal amount of paint to stick only on the highest ridges of the
surface you’re painting. So here we’re going to use a piece of wall tile to cut
out a floor tile and that’s an easy way to do it because basically the floor
tile, the only difference between a floor tile and ground tile is that it has that
outer lip that enables you to put a wall flush to the edge of the floor tile
so this is just a really easy way to do that. Now I will say I learned later
after doing this video that it’s a lot easier to cut these out if you paint
them first because all those little edge pieces are fused into place by the PVA
paint glue mix and you won’t have what happened to me here happened to you
which is, you will see it right here, that, sure enough, one of those little
pieces fell off. So I had to put it back on and glue it later which is not a big
deal but and it is also just easier to cut them after they’ve been painted with
the paint and glue mixture so just keep that in mind. Otherwise this technique
works fine. And that’s really it. So in the next video we will start and make
our walls that we can put on our ground and floor tiles. Hopefully, I will see
you in that video and till then, Happy crafting! Please like and subscribe and hit that
bell icon to be notified of new videos! As my thank you for your support, I’ve
also put some free downloads for you at GameGearMaster.com including a free
PDF that lays out the details on all the different Terraino building blocks and
I’ll be posting more free stuff there as well as game gear, D&D adventures and
other stuff you can buy to support these free videos. So thanks again!

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About the Author: Oren Garnes


  1. When doing this, is there a reason to pull off the paper on the bottom side of the base board that you glue the squares to? Won’t the paper give it more support on the bottom so the styrofoam doesn’t break or rip as easily?

  2. I'm having trouble getting the paper off, it just tears off in shreds. A quick search told me to soak it in water, but that didn't help either. How do you accomplish this?

  3. I'm working on my own Terraino set and it's going fine, my only problem is that i don't live in a country that uses the imperial system, so it's kinda hard to get a ruler that has it and converting while i follow the video is really anoying. Would it be possible, at least for your new videos, to put a Metric System conversion alongside the instructions?

    Anyway, thanks and keep on doing this amazing work!

  4. Is it not quicker if I place as many squares on my jig as I can before covering each one with hot glue then pressing it down? 8 tiles at a time ?

  5. I'm having a bit of trouble with my jig. It fits fine and all, and the grid is coming up nicely, but trying to stand a piece of foam board in between the spaces I noticed it was too loose, as if the squares were too small or maybe the jig is too thick. Will this be fixed with the layers of pva glue and paint plus the masking tape on the wall pieces?

  6. Would you recommend painting the back of these boards with a similar base coat in order to provide more durability?

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